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Updated documentation of variables contained in SurfZoneWavesAtOnsetBreaking.mat and used to produce Figures in Carini et al. (2021a) and Carini et al. (2021b) published in the Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans.  

Written by Roxanne J Carini
rjcarini@uw.edu
17 March 2020

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WaveCond = structure containing wave conditions parameters

WaveCond.tidegauge_time = time vector for tidal elevation data from gauge at end of FRF pier
WaveCond.tidegauge_zMSL = z vector (FRF coordinates) for tidal elevation data from gauge at end of FRF pier
WaveCond.lidar_time = time vector from lidar
WaveCond.lidar_zMSL = z vector (FRF coordinates) from lidar
WaveCond.FRFadop_time = time vector from FRF ADOP located in 3.5m water depth, north of the pier
WaveCond.FRFadop_Hs = significant wave height vector from FRF ADOP located in 3.5m water depth, north of the pier
WaveCond.FRFadop_Tp = peak wave period vector from FRF ADOP located in 3.5m water depth, north of the pier
WaveCond.FRFadop_dir = peak wave direction vector from FRF ADOP located in 3.5m water depth, north of the pier

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FieldSetupBathy = structure containing field setup parameters and bathymetry surveys

FieldSetupBathy.IRtower_geom = structure of top tower-mounted IR camera geometry parameters
FieldSetupBathy.IRtower_R = structure of midway tower-mounted IR camera geometry parameters
FieldSetupBathy.IRpier_R_07Nov = structure of pier-mounted IR camera geometry parameters from 07 Nov 2016
FieldSetupBathy.IRpier_R_08Nov = structure of pier-mounted IR camera geometry parameters from 08 Nov 2016
FieldSetupBathy.LIDARscangeom_X_07Nov = sample line scan x-values from lidar on 07 Nov 2016
FieldSetupBathy.LIDARscangeom_Y_07Nov = sample line scan y-values from lidar on 07 Nov 2016
FieldSetupBathy.LIDARscangeom_X_08Nov = sample line scan x-values from lidar on 08 Nov 2016
FieldSetupBathy.LIDARscangeom_Y_08Nov = sample line scan y-values from lidar on 08 Nov 2016
FieldSetupBathy.bathyInterp = time-weighted interpolated bathymetry used for analysis
FieldSetupBathy.bathy05Nov2016 = bathymetry survey collected on 05 Nov 2016, just before experiment data
FieldSetupBathy.bathy18Nov2016 = bathymetry survey collected on 18 Nov 2016, after experiment data

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lidarHist = structure containing counts of lidar returns as a function of cross-shore position

lidarHist.centers = x vector (FRF coordinates)
lidarHist.N = binned counts of lidar returns, each row corresponds to a file containing 5 minutes of data

lidarSpec = structure of lidar quality control parameters

lidarSpec.totalang = total angle swept by the lidar
lidarSpec.lidX = lidar x-position
lidarSpec.lidY = lidar y-position
lidarSpec.lidZ = lidar z-position
lidarSpec.ltilt = lidar tilt 
lidarSpec.SSL = z value for reference sea surface level (FRF coordinates)
lidarSpec.dz_SS = vertical distance between lidar and reference sea surface level
lidarSpec.measPs = number of samples per second
lidarSpec.samprate = number of lines per second
lidarSpec.measPline = number of samples per line
lidarSpec.degPmeas = angular degrees per measurement
lidarSpec.ang = vector of angle swept by lidar from onshore to offshore, given field setup
lidarSpec.losdist = line of sight distance
lidarSpec.xpos = total scan line length
lidarSpec.lscanX = x-extent of a lidar scan
lidarSpec.lscanY = y-extent of a lidar scan
lidarSpec.dx = x-distance between each returned lidar point in meters
lidarSpec.histdx = size of histogram bins in meters
lidarSpec.binsPline = number of bins per line
lidarSpec.measPxbin = measurements per bin, assuming 5.2 lines/sec sampling setup
lidarSpec.measPxbin2Hz = measurements per bin, if we dropped data such that we only received equivalent of 2 lines/sec returns
lidarSpec.minReturns = minimum required returns, sufficient for our data analysis
lidarSpec.theoReturns = theoretical maximum returns the lidar could produce, given the sampling setup

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Tracking = structure of parameters used to demonstrate wave tracking methods for lidar

Tracking.tt = wave index for example file shown in figure
Tracking.target = time index for the example wave shown in figure
Tracking.mycmap = colormap used in figure
Tracking.z_MSL = z (FRF coordinates) of mean sea level
Tracking.trackspace = structure of wave tracking parameters (peaks & troughs, elevations & indices, wave height metrics, etc.) from combined spatial and temporal tracking method
Tracking.x = raw x-values (FRF coordinates) lidar line scans
Tracking.z = raw z-values (FRF coordinates) lidar line scans
Tracking.brkMtstack = time stack of breaking, 0 = non-breaking, 1 = breaking  
Tracking.tracktime = structure of wave tracking parameters (peaks & troughs, elevations & indices, wave height metrics, etc.) from temporal-only tracking method
Tracking.xs = interpolated x vector (FRF coordinates) of lidar line scans
Tracking.zs = interpolated z-values (FRF coordinates) of lidar line scans 
Tracking.t = time vector of lidar line scans from example file

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BrkDetectEx = structure containing parameters that demonstrate data fusion from two IR cameras and lidar data to identify and classify breaking waves

BrkDetectEx.piermean = time-averaged pier-based IR image, matrix of intensity values
BrkDetectEx.targetTower = index for example tower-based IR image shown in figure
BrkDetectEx.I = tower-based IR images, matrix of intensity values 
BrkDetectEx.brkM = binary matrix of same size as I, 0 = non-breaking, 1 = breaking
BrkDetectEx.Uds = u-values (pixel coordinates in tower-based IR images) of lidar line scans 
BrkDetectEx.Vds = v-values (pixel coordinates in tower-based IR imagers) of lidar line scans
BrkDetectEx.pix = u-values (pixel coordinates in tower-based IR images) of outline of pier-based IR camera field of view 
BrkDetectEx.piy = v-values (pixel coordinates in tower-based IR images) of outline of pier-based IR camera field of view 
BrkDetectEx.targetPier = index for example pier-based IR image shown in figure
BrkDetectEx.IP0 = pier-based IR images, matrix of intensity values 
BrkDetectEx.UdsPier = u-values (pixel coordinates in pier-based IR images) of lidar line scans 
BrkDetectEx.VdsPier = u-values (pixel coordinates in pier-based IR images) of lidar line scans 
BrkDetectEx.xs = interpolated x vector (FRF coordinates) of lidar line scans
BrkDetectEx.zs = interpolated z-values (FRF coordinates) of lidar line scans
BrkDetectEx.brkMtstack = breaking mask for each lidar line scan, same size as zs, 0 = non-breaking, 1 = breaking
BrkDetectEx.pierXYZ = extent of pier-based IR camera field of view in FRF coordinate

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Tracking Ex = structure containing tracked wave parameters for an example wave

TrackingEx.exIndex = index of example wave parameters shown in figure
TrackingEx.trackspace = structure of wave tracking parameters (peaks & troughs, elevations & indices, wave height metrics, etc.) from combined spatial and temporal tracking method; wave height, wave speed, and wave slope metrics plotted in figure

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TemporalSpatialMethod = structure containing statistics, tracked waves and their wave parameters for the temporal-only tracking/estimation method and the combined spatio-temporal tracking/estimation method

TemporalSpatialMethod.stats = structure containing root-mean-squared error (rmse), normalized rmse, and bias for comparison of z_trough, z_peak, and H between the temporal-only and the combined spatio-temporal method for wave tracking and parameter estimation
TemporalSpatialMethod.Hcat = wave height (combined spatio-temporal method)
TemporalSpatialMethod.Hcompcat = wave height (temporal-only method)
TemporalSpatialMethod.ipkcat = indices of wave peaks
TemporalSpatialMethod.iprecat = indices of wave troughs that precede a given wave peak
TemporalSpatialMethod.ztrcat = z elevation of preceding trough (combined spatio-temporal method)
TemporalSpatialMethod.ztrcompcat = z elevation of preceding trough (temporal-only method)
TemporalSpatialMethod.zpkcat = z elevation of wave peak (combined spatio-temporal method)
TemporalSpatialMethod.zpkcompcat = z elevation of wave peak (temporal-only method)

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SpeedDist = structure containing wave phase celerity data from various methods for estimating speed

SpeedDist.c = concatenated speeds from discrete dx/dt method applied to interpolated lidar wave profiles
SpeedDist.cfit = concatenated speeds from discrete dx/dt methods applied to skewed-Gaussian fitted wave profiles
SpeedDist.c5pt = concatenated speeds from 5-point moving average (loess) applied to peak-tracking on interpolated lidar wave profiles
SpeedDist.cfit5pt = concatenated speeds from 5-point moving average (loess) applied to peak-tracking on skewed-Gaussian fitted wave profiles
SpeedDist.chi = concatenated chi-squared for goodness of fit of the skewed-Gaussian wave profiles
SpeedDist.edges = edges of bins used to create histogram of speeds
SpeedDist.centers = centers of bins used to create histogram of speeds
SpeedDist.nc = binned counts for c method (see description above)
SpeedDist.ncfit = binned counts for cfit method (see description above)
SpeedDist.nc5 = binned counts for c5pt method (see description above)
SpeedDist.ncfit5 = binned counts for cfit5pt method (see description above)

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SlopeMetric = structure containing wave slope data from various methods for estimating wave face slope

SlopeMetric.edges = edges of bins used to create histogram of wave slopes
SlopeMetric.centers = centers of bins used to create histogram of wave slopes
SlopeMetric.linear = wave slope estimated by fitting line to a portion of the wave face: col1 = upper 20% of the wave face, col2 = upper 50% of the wave face, col3 = upper 80% of the wave face, col4 = entire (100%) wave face
SlopeMetric.etaLprime = wave slope estimated as the ratio of eta (vertical distance from the wave peak to mean sea level) to L’ (the partial wavelength calculated horizontally from the wave peak to the location in front of the wave peak where the wave profile cross mean sea level): col1 = upper 20% of the wave face, col2 = upper 50% of the wave face, col3 = upper 80% of the wave face, col4 = entire (100%) wave face
SlopeMetric.quadratic = wave slope estimated by fitting a quadratic line to the upper 80% of the wave face and taking the maximum slope achieved over that region of the wave face
SlopeMetric.SG = wave slope estimated by fitting a skewed-Gaussian function to the upper 80% of the wave face and back of the wave and taking the maximum slope achieved over that region of the wave face
SlopeMetric.NN = 2D binned counts of the linear and eta/L’ slope metrics for each region of the fit (upper 20%, 50%, 80%, and 100% in same order as listed)

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FoamCov = structure containing data on wave face foam coverage for spilling and plunging breakers

FoamCov.zprime =  centers of bins used to calculate average foam prevalence along the wave face 
FoamCov.Sbrk = average foam prevalence at each zprime bin for post-onset spilling breakers
FoamCov.Pbrk = average foam prevalence at each zprime bin for post-onset plunging breakers
FoamCov.Sonset = average foam prevalence at each zprime bin for onset spilling breakers
FoamCov.Ponset = average foam prevalence at each zprime bin for onset plunging breakers
FoamCov.theo = theoretical wave face foam coverage assuming constant proportion (upper 80%) covered with foam

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GammaHists = structure of gamma histogram data for variety of wave and breaker types

GammaHists.centers = centers of bins for histogram of observed gamma values
GammaHists.normcountsPlunge = binned counts of plunging breaker gamma, normalized by total count
GammaHists.gaussfitPlunge = Gaussian fit to distribution of gamma for plunging breakers
GammaHists.normcountsSpill = binned counts of spilling breaker gamma, normalized by total count
GammaHists.gaussfitSpill = Gaussian fit to distribution of gamma for spilling breakers
GammaHists.normcountsUndetermined = binned counts of undetermined-type breaker gamma, normalized by total count
GammaHists.gaussfitUndetermined = Gaussian fit to distribution of gamma for undetermined-type breakers
GammaHists.normcountsOnsetObs = binned counts of onset breaker (both spilling and plunging, together) gamma, normalized by total count
GammaHists.gaussfitOnsetObs = Gaussian fit to distribution of gamma for onset breakers (both spilling and plunging, together)
GammaHists.normcountsNonBrk = binned counts of non-breaking waves gamma, normalized by total count
GammaHists.gaussfitNonBrk = Gaussian fit to distribution of gamma for non-breaking waves
GammaHists.normcountsAll = binned counts of all observed waves gamma, normalized by total count
GammaHists.gaussfitAll = Gaussian fit to distribution of gamma for all observed waves

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Nov07gamma, Nov08gamma = structures containing wave-by-wave analysis of gamma for 07 and 08 November, respectively… descriptions provided for only one structure, but also apply to the other

Nov07gamma.xS = concatenated x-locations of tracked wave peaks for spilling breakers
Nov07gamma.xbS = concatenated normalized x-locations ((x-xb)/L, xb=location of onset of breaking) of tracked wave peaks for spilling breakers
Nov07gamma.gammaS = concatenated gamma values of spilling breakers
Nov07gamma.xP = concatenated x-locations of tracked wave peaks for plunging breakers
Nov07gamma.xbP = concatenated normalized x-locations ((x-xb)/L, xb=location of onset of breaking) of tracked wave peaks for plunging breakers
Nov07gamma.gammaP = concatenated gamma values of plunging breakers
Nov07gamma.edgesXb = bin edges for normalized x to compute phase-averaged gamma profiles
Nov07gamma.centersXb = bin centers for normalized x to compute phase-averaged gamma profiles
Nov07gamma.NXb_Spill = counts of occurrence of spilling breaker gamma data in each normalized x bin
Nov07gamma.binsXb_Spill = bin index for normalized x from phase-averaged gamma from spilling breakers
Nov07gamma.NXb_Plunge = counts of occurrence of plunging breaker gamma data in each normalized x bin
Nov07gamma.binsXb_Plunge = bin index for normalized x from phase-averaged gamma from plunging breakers
Nov07gamma.binXb_meansSpill = mean of gamma for spilling breakers as a function of normalized x-location
Nov07gamma.binXb_stdSpill = standard deviation of gamma for spilling breakers as a function of normalized x-location
Nov07gamma.SEM_Spill = standard error of gamma for spilling breakers as a function of normalized x-location
Nov07gamma.ts_Spill = t-score for difference of mean from zero for spilling breakers
Nov07gamma.CIXb_Spill = 95% confidence interval for the mean gamma of spilling breakers 
Nov07gamma.binXb_meansPlunge = mean of gamma for plunging breakers as a function of normalized x-location
Nov07gamma.binXb_stdPlunge = standard deviation of gamma for plunging breakers as a function of normalized x-location
Nov07gamma.SEM_Plunge = standard error of gamma for plunging breakers as a function of normalized x-location
Nov07gamma.ts_Plunge = t-score for difference of mean from zero for plunging breakers
Nov07gamma.CIXb_Plunge = 95% confidence interval for the mean gamma of plunging breakers 

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Nov07theta, Nov08theta = structures containing wave-by-wave analysis of wave slope theta for 07 and 08 November, respectively… descriptions provided for only one structure, but also apply to the other

Nov07theta.xS = concatenated x-locations of tracked wave peaks for spilling breakers
Nov07theta.xbS = concatenated normalized x-locations ((x-xb)/L, xb=location of onset of breaking) of tracked wave peaks for spilling breakers
Nov07theta.thetaS = concatenated theta values of spilling breakers
Nov07theta.xP = concatenated x-locations of tracked wave peaks for plunging breakers
Nov07theta.xbP = concatenated normalized x-locations ((x-xb)/L, xb=location of onset of breaking) of tracked wave peaks for plunging breakers
Nov07theta.thetaP = concatenated theta values of plunging breakers
Nov07theta.edgesXb = bin edges for normalized x to compute phase-averaged theta profiles
Nov07theta.centersXb = bin centers for normalized x to compute phase-averaged theta profiles
Nov07theta.NXb_Spill = counts of occurrence of spilling breaker theta data in each normalized x bin
Nov07theta.binsXb_Spill = bin index for normalized x from phase-averaged theta from spilling breakers
Nov07theta.NXb_Plunge = counts of occurrence of plunging breaker theta data in each normalized x bin
Nov07theta.binsXb_Plunge = bin index for normalized x from phase-averaged theta from plunging breakers
Nov07theta.binXb_meansSpill = mean of theta for spilling breakers as a function of normalized x-location
Nov07theta.binXb_stdSpill = standard deviation of theta for spilling breakers as a function of normalized x-location
Nov07theta.SEM_Spill = standard error of theta for spilling breakers as a function of normalized x-location
Nov07theta.ts_Spill = t-score for difference of mean from zero for spilling breakers
Nov07theta.CIXb_Spill = 95% confidence interval for the mean theta of spilling breakers 
Nov07theta.binXb_meansPlunge = mean of theta for plunging breakers as a function of normalized x-location
Nov07theta.binXb_stdPlunge = standard deviation of theta for plunging breakers as a function of normalized x-location
Nov07theta.SEM_Plunge = standard error of theta for plunging breakers as a function of normalized x-location
Nov07theta.ts_Plunge = t-score for difference of mean from zero for plunging breakers
Nov07theta.CIXb_Plunge = 95% confidence interval for the mean theta of plunging breakers 

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DA_NB, DA_SP = structure containing results of discriminant analysis on non-breaking v breaking data (NB) and spilling v plunging data (SP), respectively… descriptions provided for only one structure, but also apply to the other

DA_NB.gammaN = all gamma values measured for non-breaking waves
DA_NB.gammaB = all gamma values measured for breaking waves
DA_NB.thetaN = all wave slope theta values measured for non-breaking waves
DA_NB.thetaB = all wave slope theta values measured for breaking waves
DA_NB.f_NB = multivariate function using gamma and theta to draw a line segregating non-breaking from breaking waves in gamma, theta parameter space
DA_NB.centers_gN = bin centers for histogram of non-breaking gamma values
DA_NB.N_gN = binned counts for histogram of non-breaking gamma values
DA_NB.centers_gB = bin centers for histogram of breaking gamma values
DA_NB.N_gB = binned counts for histogram of breaking gamma values
DA_NB.con = confusion matrix for non-breaking gamma values
DA_NB.gvec = gamma values from 0 to 1.5 to test as classifier
DA_NB.gcrit = critical gamma value that best separates non-breaking from breaking waves when used by itself, calculated from confusion matrix
DA_NB.tvec = wave slope theta values from 0 to 50 degrees to test as classifier
DA_NB.tcrit = critical theta value that best separates non-breaking from breaking waves when used by itself, calculated from confusion matrix
DA_NB.X_gNB = false positive rate, or 1-specificity, as function of critical gamma value applied, using Receiver Operating Characteristic (ROC) Curve method
DA_NB.Y_gNB = true positive rate, or sensitivity, as function of critical gamma value applied, using ROC Curve method
DA_NB.X_tNB = false positive rate, or 1-specificity, as function of critical theta value applied, using ROC Curve method
DA_NB.Y_tNB = true positive rate, or sensitivity, as function of critical theta value applied, using ROC Curve method
DA_NB.OPTROCPT_gNB = critical gamma value that best separates non-breaking from breaking waves when used by itself, calculated from ROC Curve method
DA_NB.OPTROCPT_tNB = critical theta value that best separates non-breaking from breaking waves when used by itself, calculated from ROC Curve method
DA_NB.FPrate_fNB = false positive rate for discriminating non-breaking from breaking waves using linear function of gamma and theta
DA_NB.TPrate_fNB = true positive rate for discriminating non-breaking from breaking waves using linear function of gamma and theta
DA_NB.gammaNB_crit = critical gamma value that best separates non-breaking from breaking waves when used by itself, calculated from ROC Curve
DA_NB.thetaNB_crit = critical theta value that best separates non-breaking from breaking waves when used by itself, calculated from ROC Curve

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Prevalence_NBSP = structure containing metrics of the prevalence of non-breaking/breaking and spilling/plunging

Prevalence_NBSP.PrevNB = prevalence of breaking, calculated for each (theta, gamma) bin as the number of observations in that bin from breaking waves divided by the total number of observations (non-breaking and breaking) in that bin
Prevalence_NBSP.TT = bin centers for wave slope theta
Prevalence_NBSP.GG = bin centers for gamma
Prevalence_NBSP.TotalNB = total number of observations (non-breaking and breaking) in each bin
Prevalence_NBSP.f_NB = linear function of theta and gamma to delineate non-breaking from breaking
Prevalence_NBSP.PrevSP = prevalence of plunging type breakers, calculated for each (theta, gamma) bin as the number of observations in that bin from plunging breakers divided by the total number of observations (plunging and spilling) in that bin
Prevalence_NBSP.TotalSP = total number of observations (spilling and plunging) in each bin
Prevalence_NBSP.f_SP = linear function of theta and gamma to delineate spilling from plunging breakers

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Miche = structure containing parameters used to assess Miche steepness criteria for depth-limited breaking: tanh(kh)=(1/7)H/L

Miche.xMcenters = bin centers of tanh(kh) for the x-axis of the Miche steepness plot
Miche.yMcenters = bin centers of H/L for the y-axis of the Miche steepness plot
Miche.nMNB = 2D histogram counts (xMcenters, yMcenters) for non-breaking wave observations
Miche.tanhS = vector of tanh(kh) for all spilling breaker observations
Miche.HLS = vector of H/L for all spilling breakers observations
Miche.tanhP = vector of tanh(kh) for all plunging breaker observations
Miche.HLP = vector of H/L for all plunging breaker observations
Miche.xvec = vector of tanh(kh) to plot along x-axis as Miche threshold, yvec = 1/7*xvec
Miche.m = vector of critical values (0:0.2) to test relative to the Miche steepness critical value (1/7)
Miche.percOverNB = percentage of non-breaking wave observations that fall above the Miche threshold
Miche.percOverS = percentage of spilling breaker observations that fall above the Miche threshold
Miche.percOverp = percentage of plunging breaker observations that fall above the Miche threshold
 
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BathyInvert = structure containing bathymetry survey data and bathymetry derived from various inversion techniques using estimated wave phase speed

BathyInvert.CENTERS = bin centers of FRF x-locations at which average bathymetry inversion depth values are computed
BathyInvert.Zsw_X = binned, mean FRF z-coordinates for bottom elevation profiles found using shock wave theory inversion
BathyInvert.Zsol_X = binned, mean FRF z-coordinates for bottom elevation profiles found using solitary wave theory inversion
BathyInvert.Zlwt_X = binned, mean FRF z-coordinates for bottom elevation profiles found using shallow water linear wave theory inversion
BathyInvert.on = indices corresponding to the extent of the LIDAR FOV on 07 Nov 2016
BathyInvert.off = indices corresponding to the extent of the LIDAR FOV on 08 Nov 2016
BathyInvert.CIsw = 95% confidence interval for mean depth inverted from shock wave theory
BathyInvert.CIsol = 95% confidence interval for mean depth inverted from solitary wave theory
BathyInvert.CIlwt = 95% confidence interval for mean depth inverted from shallow water linear wave theory
BathyInvert.bathy7_8 = time-weighted interpolation of bathymetry used for analysis; same as FieldSetupBathy.bathyInterp above
BathyInvert.after = bathymetry survey collected on 18 Nov 2016, after experiment data; same as FieldSetupBathy.bathy18Nov2016 above
BathyInvert.during = bathymetry survey collected on 05 Nov 2016, just before experiment data; same as FieldSetupBathy.bathy05Nov2016 above